There are some differences when it comes to laying a hardwood floor. If you’re nervous about laying Wood flooring and your level of DIY skills in general, don’t be afraid to ask a more experienced friend if they can help. Technological advances in wood flooring have meant that the products are of higher quality and easier to install.
Before we get started with our guide on how to lay wood flooring in Columbus, you will need to make sure your wood floor has been left in the room you plan to install it in for at least 48 hours before beginning the laying process.
As the gaskets adapt to the new environment, they will expand or contract accordingly. You should make sure to clean your subfloor thoroughly to remove any dirt and small particles that can cause problems when you do get to laying your hardwood floor.
Let’s get started and start our guide on how to lay wood flooring:
Tools for the job
- a panel saw or power saw (for example, circular saw)
- tile spacers
- safety glasses
- a hammer
- a pencil
- set square
- Scotch tape
- a sharp knife
- tapping block
- a drawbar
- self-adhesive base coat
How to measure your Wood flooring
To calculate how much wood flooring you will need for your project, you will need to measure your space to calculate the total area squared that needs to be covered. Hardwood floors come in various size packages depending on the variety you purchase, and these packages tell you both the dimensions of the board and the overall coverage that can be achieved per package.
To calculate how many packages of hardwood flooring are needed for your project, first measure the width and length of your room. Multiply these numbers by each other to get the total size of your area. Uncomfortable rooms can sometimes be difficult to measure, but the best way to try to overcome this is to try to divide your area into smaller spaces that you can square, and then add up the individual area sizes of these squares.
To calculate how many wood flooring packages you will need, take the total size of your area (this should be in the same units as those used in wood flooring packaging) and divide this number by the total area covered in one package of boards of wood.
It is highly recommended to purchase at least ten percent more boards than you have estimated you will need for your project. This is to avoid running out of boards in the middle of your projects in case of mistakes or bad measurements.
Mark your hardwood floor
Unlike when laying the affordable wood flooring, it is not necessary to mark the position of every plank of wood you lay. However, it is recommended that you lay a test row before you begin to install the self-adhesive backing. This is to help determine the direction and position in which you will begin laying the flooring and also help estimate the number of boards at the end of the row that you will need to cut when you get to it.
A good tip is to start laying your hardwood floor in the lightest part of the room. You should try to avoid a layout that requires you to cut more than 50% of the depth of the end-of-row boards or less than 400mm of the width of the boards.
Placing a self-adhesive base
We will install a ‘floating floor’ through the methods used in this tutorial. This means that technically the new Wood flooring in New Zealand is not directly attached to the old subfloor. This is a very common, efficient, and perfectly effective way to install hardwood floors. With this in mind, start laying your shiny base side up.
This is because the shiny side is the one with the adhesive on it. Make sure you have the spacers in place and that you position the rolls at a 90-degree angle to how you will be laying the laminate boards; This is to prevent the joints between the base pieces from matching the joints between the wooden floor piece.
While laying the base coat, make sure there are no gaps or overlaps between the sections, as any of these can cause the wooden planks to sag or boast. The goal here is a nice, consistent surface.
Laying wood floors
Using the layout you start by peeling off a section of the protective film at the base about half the width of a wooden board. Then gently put your first board in place (making sure the spacers are still in place). If you satisfy with the position of the first board, remove the more protective film to fully expose the board.
Most hardwood floors have a tongue and groove trim profile. These boards fit easily and can be attached by inserting the new board at a 45-degree angle to the old one and then snapping it into place as you lower it. You can use your hitting block or drawbar to further encourage the boards in place if necessary.
The end of row boards can be cut with the saw you have available and marking the board where the cut is to be made. Be careful, cutting the board upward as different saws can damage the top or bottom of the wood. Remember to wear your safety glasses while doing this.
Apply the finishing touches
It is recommended that you wait at least 48 hours before applying the Wood flooring finishing touches to your floors, such as trim or plaster. This will allow the soil to settle more.
Use a miter box to help cut your trim and siding at an angle. Transition bars can be used where your new flooring meets a different door or floor surface.